On the highway of Pudukkottai – Trichy is a place named Narthamalai. It is situated at a distance of about 18km from Pudukkottai. From the busy highway is a road diverting into the village, Narthamalai. The diversion has an entry arch that welcomes the people. Below the entrance are a few ladies selling flowers that are usually bought and offered to the deities. Behind them is an auto stand, where a person can catch an auto to get into the village. Pudukkottai district is covered with hills all around. This place is of no exception from that. As I enter into the arch, there are a few shops in either sides, and as I proceed further, there is a small hill that holds many trees at its foot. At the end of the small hill is a busy village where a few people are on their way towards their work, and a few discussing the matters of their own in the shops.
There are two archaeological sites in the village, and both are temples. I have come to visit Vijayalaya Choleeswarar temple which was believed to have been built by the Muthiraiyars (Muthiraiyars were the feudatories of the Pallavas) who were then the rulers of the Pudukkottai region. The belief is debatable for some say that the temple has been built by the first medieval Chola king, Vijayalaya chola (848-891 CE). The temple is believed to be one of the oldest temples of Chola works. It is also believed that the other famous temples of Cholas in existence today would have been built only after the construction of this temple.
As I ask an old man, who is headed somewhere, the direction to the Choleeswarar temple to which he has no clue about. I, then, rephrase my question and ask him where the temple of Lord Shiva is. He, then, guides me in the direction. As I follow the direction he guided me, I am going on a path between the houses. It is not a paved road, but a path created by the people of the local. At the end of path is a pond where a few boys are swimming and playing among themselves. At the end of the pond is a rocky hill that houses the Vijayalaya Choleeswarar temple. From the foot hill, I am only able to see a portion of the temple, but not the entire structure. There is a bank that borders the pond, and acts as a path that connects the foothill.
The hill is slopy without any step carved from it, so it makes me be cautious about the steps I place while climbing the hill. As I ascend the hill, there are two families descending the hill having visited the temple. Of them is a man who has recently shaved his head, and seems to be the head of the family. He is guiding them in cautiously descending the hill. As I climb half the hill, I turn around to immerse myself in the top view of the place around me, and it is beautiful. At the foot hill are villages, at the southern side is a pond where the boys are swimming, and surrounding the hill are a few more hills. As I proceed further, there is a small structure which would probably have been built a couple of years back. The structure is constructed with clay bricks, and limestone mortar. Inside the structure is Lord Ganesha. Behind the structure is a large pit that holds water accumulated from rain. The small pit formed in the rocky hills is called as “Sunai”.
As I proceed to ascend the hill, I reach the temple. I feel weary, and start to sweat under the hot noon sun having climbed the slopy hill without steps. The temple is bordered with the huge stone blocks beautifully and intelligently placed one above the other to sustain the natural calamities. There is an opening that leads into the temple. The temple is built of stone blocks. As it has been built many years ago, and has been failed in maintaining till the Archaeological department of India took under its control, most of the structure is corroded. The main temple is facing the west, and has a Nandi facing the temple, placed in front of it. The main temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and is surrounded by 6 other shrines. It is believed that there used to be 8 shrines around the main temple. Of which, only 6 are present. Direct opposite to the temple are two rock cut cave structures. One is said to house the life size statues of Lord Vishnu. They are carved from the rock bed itself. On the way towards the cave where Lord Vishnu is worshipped, there is a stage that connects the ground with the temple. The stage has many inscriptions lying as a base.
It is a place where one can find and appreciate the ancient knowledge, and beauty.
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